Place the salt cod, milk, and bay leaf in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and bring to a light simmer. Continue to simmer for about 10 minutes until the cod flakes easily.

Baccala is salted, dried cod, and in this full-blooded Italian’s estimation, it’s the only undesirable dish of the seven (we serve it as part of a cold salad; if there’s a better way, I’d love to hear ...